Surrounded by semi-desert on the oil-rich Caspian Sea, the nation’s cosmopolitan capital Baku is a dynamic boomtown, where flashy limousines and mushrooming skyscrapers sweep around a picturesque Unesco-listed ancient core. Yet barely three hours’ drive away lies an entirely different world: timeless villages clad in lush orchards from which shepherd tracks lead into the soaring high Caucasus mountains. Where Baku is multilingual and go-ahead, the provinces shuffle to the gently paced click of nard (backgammon) on tree-shaded teahouse terraces: women stay home, herds of cattle wander aimlessly across highways, and potbellied bureaucrats scratch their heads in confusion on finding that an outsider has wandered into their territory.
Visiting the country takes creativity and imagination, as the tourist industry is at best ‘nascent’. Although there are plenty of rural ‘rest-zones’ for holidaying city folk, they cater mainly for locals who want to unwind with hefty feasts and family chats, so rarely provide any activities. Very few people outside Baku speak English, but the challenge is a great part of the appeal. So where to, then? Southern Azerbaijan is one of the country’s more pleasant regions, both along the coast and inland: Lәnkәran is a quaint seaside town famed for its flowers, while Masalli & around makes a good entry point for exploring the Talysh mountains. Northern Azerbaijan is where you’ll find the Caucasus Mountains and the incredible village of Xinaliq, with its jaw-dropping views and traditional mountain culture. And for something completely different (in a country full of completely different travel experiences!), there’s always the remote and intriguing enclave of Nagorno-Karabakh.
Azerbaijani food combines Turkish and central Asian elements. Baku has an excellent selection of Western style restaurants. In the chaikhanas (tea houses), men linger for hours drinking sweet black tea out of tiny glasses and playing nard (backgammon). A special place in the cuisine belongs to lamb kebabs of which there are many different varieties. Salads are served together with main course.
Things to know: Although the majority of Azeris are nominally Shia Muslims, alcohol is widely available.
National specialties:
• Lyulya kebab (spiced, minced
lamb pressed onto skewers).
• Dograma (a milky potato, cucumber and onion soup served cold).
• Piti is (a mutton and chickpea soup).
• Kutab (pancakes stuffed with spinach, herbs or pumpkin).
• Badimjan Dolmasi (mutton served with aubergine, tomatoes, basil and sour cream).
National drinks:
• Wines and brandies are produced locally.
• Sherbets are popular soft drinks made of sugar, lemon, saffron, seeds of mint and basilt.
• Tea served accompanied by various jams such as quince, fig, apricot, white cherry and plum. Sometimes dried leaves or flowers of savory, clove, cardamom and other spices are added to tea.
• Tea with darchin (cinnamon), ginger and, occasionally, rosewater.
